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By
CeCe Sullivan
Seattle Times
home economist
Rose water,
the heady
distillation
of rose petals
and steam, is
something of
an acquired
taste for
Western
palates. Its
scent may hint
of secret
gardens and
distant
nations, or
perhaps it's
the
overwhelming
fragrance of a
department-store
perfume
counter that
comes to mind.
While never a
fan of rose
water's taste,
I admit to a
fascination
for a
flavoring with
such a rich
history. The
ancient
Egyptians,
Greeks and
Romans
extracted
flavor from
rose petals by
steeping them
in water or
oil, and in
the ninth
century,
Persia began
the
distillation
of rose water.
But it's a
10th-century
physician
named Avicenna
who is most
often credited
with its
discovery. "It
was in his
time that the
use of rose
water as a
flavoring for
food came into
vogue in the
lavish and
sumptuous
cuisine of the
Arabs," writes
Alan Davidson
in "The
Penguin
Companion to
Food" (Penguin
Books, 2002).
"It was used
to flavor a
variety of
dishes and
even sprayed
over the
surface of the
cooking pot."
What drew me
in to the
wonders of
rose water was
a recent
article in
Gourmet
magazine
featuring a
couple of
Brits, Samuel
and Samantha
Clark, whose
London
restaurant,
Moro, focuses
on dishes from
Morocco and
Spain.
"Oranges and
rose water are
a traditional
combination in
Morocco,"
write the
Clarks in
their book
"Casa Moro"
(Ebury Press,
2004) "and
sometimes for
breakfast we
have freshly
squeezed
orange juice
with a few
splashes of
rose water
mixed in."
The pairing
sounded exotic
and delicious,
a concept
worth
exploring. I
began
experimenting
with a few
drops of the
water in my
own morning
glass of
orange juice.
The flavor was
an eye-opener.
Fragrant and
fresh with
just a
suggestion of
rose, it
transformed
the simple
glass of
juice.
Further
investigation
uncovered a
global pantry
of ideas. Rose
water is used
in a variety
of Indian
curries, Greek
pastries and
Middle East
dishes,
including the
candy Turkish
Delight and a
baklava that
mixes
pistachios
with a
rosewater-honey
syrup.
Marzipan, the
sweet paste of
ground almonds
and sugar, was
originally
flavored with
rose water.
The secret to
using rose
water as a
flavoring is
to add it in
small amounts,
then tasting
and adjusting
the flavor to
taste. Pair it
with spices
such as
cinnamon,
nutmeg and
cardamom, with
citrus fruits,
peaches, nuts
and chocolate.
Once opened,
rose water
should be
stored in the
refrigerator
for freshness.
Rose water can
be found at
specialty-food
stores and
well-stocked
supermarkets
with other
flavorings and
extracts.
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Makes
6 ½cups
-
5 1/3 cups
water
- 1 cup
granulated
sugar
- 1 1/3 cups
fresh lemon
juice (about 6
to 7 lemons)
- 2 ½ to 3 ½
teaspoons rose
water
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Combine water
and sugar in a
saucepan and
heat over
medium-low
heat, stirring
just until the
sugar has
dissolved.
Remove from
heat and cool.
Stir in lemon
juice and rose
water to
taste. Chill
well before
serving. |
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Recipe:
Peaches in
Rosewater
Syrup
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Makes
4 to 6
servings
-
4 cups water
- 2 cups
granulated
sugar
- 3
tablespoons
fresh lemon
juice
- 2 cinnamon
sticks
- ¼ teaspoon
green cardamom
pods
- Optional: 1
tablespoon
dried rose
buds (see
note)
- 1 teaspoon
rose water
- 4 ripe but
firm peaches -
Crisp cookies
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1. In a 3
½-quart pan
combine water,
sugar, lemon
juice,
cinnamon and
cardamom.
Bring to a
boil, stirring
to dissolve
sugar. Reduce
heat and
simmer gently
10 minutes.
Stir in dried
rose buds and
rose water.
Simmer 5
minutes.
Remove from
heat and cool
5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile,
bring a pot of
water to the
boil. Remove
from heat and
add peaches.
Time about 30
seconds or
just until
skins begin to
loosen. Remove
peaches and
rinse gently
with cool
water. When
cool enough to
handle, slip
off the skins.
Cut peaches
into quarters,
discarding the
pits, and put
into a bowl.
3. Pour hot
syrup over the
peaches. Cool
about 15
minutes, then
place a piece
of wax paper
on top and
weight with a
small plate.
Refrigerate
several hours
until peaches
are chilled
and have
absorbed the
flavors of the
syrup. (These
peaches should
be served the
same day they
are made.)
4. Remove rose
buds, cinnamon
sticks and
cardamom pods
from syrup.
Spoon peaches
with some of
the syrup in
glass bowls
and serve with
cookies. |
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Recipe:
Almond-Rose
Pound Cak
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Makes 12 to 16
slices
-
Cooking spray
- 1 cup
unsalted
butter, cut
into pieces
- ¼ cup
slivered
almonds
- 1 2/3
cups
granulated
sugar
- 5
large eggs
- 2
cups
all-purpose
flour
- ½
teaspoon salt
- 1
teaspoon rose
water
- ¼ cup
rose preserves
or jam (see
note)
- 1
teaspoon
almond extract
-
Powdered sugar
for dusting
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1. Preheat
oven to 350
degrees.
Lightly spray
a 9-inch tube
pan with
cooking spray
and set aside.
2.
Put the pieces
of butter into
the large bowl
of an electric
mixer and set
aside about 15
minutes to
soften. Grind
almonds finely
in a food
processor or
blender and
set aside.
3.
When butter
has softened,
cream with
sugar on
medium speed
until fluffy,
about 5
minutes. Add
eggs, one at a
time, beating
well after
each addition.
Stir together
flour and
salt. Slowly
add to the
creamed
mixture,
beating until
batter is
smooth.
4.
Remove about a
third of the
batter and add
rose water and
jam, stirring
until smooth.
Stir the
ground almonds
and almond
extract into
the remaining
batter. Spoon
half of the
almond batter
into the
prepared pan,
spreading
evenly. Spoon
all of rose
batter into
the pan,
spreading
evenly. Then
top with
remaining
almond batter
and spread
until smooth.
5.
Bake cake on
center oven
rack 50 to 60
minutes or
until it tests
done. Cool
cake in pan 15
minutes, then
run a knife
around the
outside edge
and also
around the
center tube.
Invert onto a
cooling rack
and cool
completely.
Dust with
powdered sugar
before
serving.
Recipies
adapted from
"New Food of
Life: Ancient
Persian and
Modern Iranian
Cooking and
Ceremonies" by
Najmieh
Batmanglij
and from
www.recipegoldmine.com
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Natural rose
water has a
gorgeous
uplifting scent.
